INSTALLATION

STINGRAY CLASSIC, PRO

WARNING: WITH ALL ENGINE INSTALLATIONS, ENSURE BOAT ENGINE IS OFF,

KILL SWITCH IS DISENGAGED, AND GEAR SHIFT IS IN NEUTRAL POSITION.

TOOLS NEEDED:

  • Electric Drill and 1/4” Drill Bit

  • Phillips Head Screwdriver

INSTALLATION HARDWARE:

  • (2) Nylon Lock Hex Nuts

  • (2) ¼-20 x 1.5” Stainless Steel Bolts

INSTALLATION STEPS:

1. Slide the StingRay Classic, PRO Hydrofoil onto the cavitation plate as far forward as possible with the torque tab and/or sacrificial anode still attached and in place. Make sure there is no gap between the end of the cavitation plate and the hydrofoil.

2. Using an Electric Drill and ¼” Drill Bit, drill through the cavitation plate using the two holes on the top side of the hydrofoil as a guide. Make sure to keep the drill perpendicular to the cavitation plate while drilling.

3. Place the (2) Nylon Hex Nuts into the hex pockets that surround the holes on the top side of the hydrofoil. Make sure the smaller openings on each of the Nylon Hex Nuts are facing upwards and the larger openings on the Nylon Hex Nuts are facing downwards.

4. Insert the ¼-20 x 1.5” Stainless Steel Bolts from the bottom of the hydrofoil, through the holes that were drilled in STEP 2, up through the holes in the top side of the hydrofoil, and into the Nylon Hex Nuts.

PRO TIP: Place a finger on top of the Nylon Hex Nuts to keep them in place while inserting the Stainless Steel Bolts from the bottom side.

5. Tighten the Stainless Steel Bolts using a Phillips Head Screwdriver until the bolts are snug against the cavitation plate.

6. Check for propeller clearance by slowly turning the propeller by hand making sure that there is no interference between the StingRay Classic, PRO Hydrofoil and the propeller before operating!

NOTICE: This product should make an immediate performance improvement in your boat/motor…if for ANY REASON it does not, then remove this product and utilize the Customer Contact Form on our website (www.StingRayHydrofoil.com) for assistance.

Any surface “flow marks” around holes that appear to be cracks are not cracks, but they are a normal part of the molding process and do not affect the part strength or performance.